Italy again. Another trip to plan. Last time, my mother and I went on a surprise trip to Rome, but unfortunately my brother couldn't make it. This time, he's getting a taste of Italian life — and the good kind of Italian, not the Roman kind.
I believe that if you give something from the heart, the universe eventually gives something back. Maybe in a different form, but I believe it works — just like karma. So my mum liked our last trip together and now she's invited us. We've been wondering where we should go and have finally decided on the southern Italian province of Puglia. We're looking forward to seeing how southern Italians live here and how their mentality is different compared to Rome the capital city. We're also looking forward to plenty of sunshine and good food.
DAY ONE
old town and aperol spritz
The flight was in the morning, so we got to the airport in Bari at the start of the day. Bari's central train station was about 20 minutes from the airport. The sun was already much stronger than at home, and it was lovely to be able to change from a jacket to a T-shirt. We quickly checked in and set off to explore the area. Once we’d had our welcome Aperol spritz, we got our heads together and planned out the first day in Bari. There was one small problem: my mum doesn't really drink alcohol, so the three glasses were actually for two people. It was funny because several times during the trip she asked when we were going to have another Aperol. By the second time, my brother and I knew exactly what she meant.
We walked down to the beach and watched the boats in the harbour for a while, then took a small turn towards the old town. There were lots of narrow alleyways, which made navigation tricky even for Google Maps. The history here is really fascinating. It's a great place to see how the older generation in southern Italy live. They have plenty of time for anything, and it's pretty hot anyway, so where would the hurry? The locals seemed to live on the streets, or at least it felt like social media and the internet didn't exist here. It felt like the locals were living on the streets, or perhaps it was just my impression that social media and the internet didn't exist here. The locals, young and old alike, hang out outside their houses chatting. The old ladies are famous for making orecchiette by hand — the little ear-shaped pasta that Puglia is known for. They shape it by hand and then dry it in the sun.
Old ladies making homemade orecchiette pasta on the street as a local attraction
Fresh fruit and vegetables every day — do they know what GMO is?
On our way we came across the castle, so we stopped in to take a look around and check out a few of the exhibitions. But what really stood out was the Basilica of St. Nicholas. My neighbour is an icon painter priest and gave me some interesting insights. We all know St. Nicholas as Santa Claus with his white beard and red suit, but he was actually a saint who performed many miracles. His bones, which have a distinctive aroma, are stored beneath the basilica, attracting numerous pilgrims.
One side of the castle — either it was smaller than expected, or part of it was closed to visitors.
There were also various exhibitions, educational displays and digital projections.
My neighbour is an icon-painting priest, and he gave me some interesting insights into St. Nicholas. We all know him as Santa Claus, with his white beard and red suit, but he was actually a real saint who was believed to have performed many miracles. His relics are kept beneath the basilica, attracting pilgrims from all over the world.
It was quite a long walk and we were hungry, so we made a reservation at the restaurant our host recommended. It was a small restaurant, but it was really popular, so we made a booking. We had an hour and a half to wait, so we thought we’d get an appetiser somewhere else. A ham and cheese platter with olives and a beer sounded like a great starter. On our way back, I spotted giant octopus sandwiches, so I decided to give one a try. It's easy to get it wrong with the frying, but it was done perfectly.
The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around, trying some focaccia — a traditional Italian flatbread — and watching the locals go about their daily lives. It was a long day with lots of walking, so we had a quick rest to be ready for day two.
'Salumeria Meraviglie' in Italian means 'Delicatessen Wonders' or 'Delicatessen Treasures.' The word 'salumeria' means a deli or delicatessen, where you can buy various cold cuts, cheeses, and other gourmet items.
On the way we witnessed a serious crime
In reality, it was just a programme to promote the police in front of the town hall
DAY two
molfetta & trani
The next day we decided to visit some small towns in the neighbourhood. Luckily, these are 15-minute journeys by train. Molfetta was the first destination, followed by Trani. Both were lovely little fishing towns, well worth a few hours of walking around.
There was nothing in particular we had to see. We just walked wherever our feet took us and enjoyed watching the locals go about their daily lives. We visited the old town, then the local harbour and fish market, then on to Trani.
Gathering for conversation in Italian style
A little health walk with friends before lunch
It was interesting to see older men getting together to talk. You can see this in almost every small town, street by street. I noticed plenty of heated arguments, but they always seemed to end in laughter.
The old-timer among the modern cars
Old Vespa love everywhere
It was well into lunch time when we arrived, they take siesta very seriously here, and as we were running late we literally ran to find a restaurant that was still open. Luckily we found one and after lunch we had an ice cream in the harbour and then returned to Bari.
Date at the harbour
We had to wait for lunch, but in the meantime I discovered that Pininfarina designs water bottles too.
Ice cream after lunch, of course with pistachios and caramel
Quick review of who caught bigger fish in the morning
DAY three
visiting polignano a mare
I think this was the day everyone was looking forward to the most. Some of the most beautiful and famous photos of Puglia were taken here, in the neighbouring town of Polignano a Mare. So, of course, we had to see it for ourselves.
I've been to plenty of places that looked beautiful in photos but didn't quite live up to them in person. Luckily, this wasn't one of them. Everything really was as beautiful as in the photos.
"The sun was so bright that even with sunglasses you could hardly see anything"
Love is in the air
My mother and brother would be enjoying the view if I wasn't taking picture of them
Strolling in the old town
Fortunately, there were still few tourists, so the place was still pleasant and kept its charm. The sea was only for the brave, so tourists waited a few months to see it :) The sun was so bright and the brightly painted buildings and squares reflected the light so much that it was hard to see anything without sunglasses, so we decided to find a beach and go for a sunbath.
Statue of Italian singer and songwriter Domenico Modugno, best known for “Volare”, who was born in Polignano a Mare.
Pizza and Chinotto bittersweet drink is the best combo
There were lots of cats in one of the bays where we stopped to swim. Here we got into a gang war.
The weather was deceptive, we needed a jacket in the morning and a swimsuit by lunchtime. The man had not yet felt the early summer.
Tuk-tuk taxis were waiting for tourists at the train station. Lamborghinis would be more Italian, by the way :)
The sea was still quite cold, so I only went in knee-deep, but my brother was brave enough to take a dip. For lunch we went back to the main square where the statue of Domenico Modugno stands. We found a pizza place and chose three different pizzas, all of which were excellent. The third day went by very quickly, and unfortunately it was time to catch the train back to Bari, pack our bags and say goodbye.
Southern Italy was a very pleasant surprise. The people were much friendlier than in Rome, the food was delicious, and we were lucky with the weather too. I would come back any time. Thanks, Mum, for the trip. It was great to travel together again — and finally with you too, my brother. I'm already looking forward to our next adventure together.
arrivederci Bari
Thanks for giving the Italian way of life another chance. I’m sure Puglia has more stories for us.
