Malta is a very divisive place, at least among the people I know. We spent quite a long time there in 2015. Before we met, my wife and I had both spent longer periods abroad, in Dublin and Sydney, and we were eager to experience living abroad again. So in 2015 we decided to move to Malta. And now we are going to relive this pleasant nostalgic experience, if only for a few days.

We hadn't been able to go on holiday since the pandemic, so after 3 years we were really looking forward to finally going on holiday (Although I have to admit that Orsi is better suited to holidays than I am. She loves the beach, while I could happily spend my time cycling in the mountains instead.). After much deliberation (due to the skyrocketing cost of holidays at home and abroad), Orsi suggested, "Why don't we go to Malta?" — Yes, why not? We know it like the back of our hands and have had good experiences there. How many years had passed? Much more than we thought, time really does fly. 8 years had passed, but how much has changed there? Well, it was time to find out.

By coincidence, our accommodation was right next to our old rental. Actually, the house opposite us hadn't even been there before. They had even built a whole hotel behind the bus stop where we used to catch our daily shuttle. Perfect. We got to see our old street again, the grocery store, our favourite pizza place, the running track, the fish shop and even the little stray cats we used to feed every day (I'm pretty sure they've already moved on to the eternal hunting ground).

"It was time to travel again"

DAY ONE

Visiting the old town of Mdina

We spent the day walking through the narrow streets of the old town, stopping for coffee and pistachio cake along the way.

Ancient stone entrance gate to Mdina with ornate architectural details and statues in Malta.

Horse-drawn carriage waiting by a historic archway entrance with tourists in the background.

History and sandstone everywhere

The old town is well worth a walk. The narrow streets are charming, and the shade can be particularly welcome on a hot day.

One of the local attractions is the unique door knockers — and what else could they be themed around in Malta but the sea?

Vintage stone wall with ornate lantern fixture in Mediterranean architecture style.

Beautiful blue door framed by pink bougainvillea flowers on honey-colored Mediterranean building.

Historic Mediterranean building with turquoise door covered in climbing pink bougainvillea.

Vintage brass mailbox mounted on textured limestone wall with ornate royal crest design.

Brass door knocker in circular wreath design mounted on bright red painted door.

Decorative brass seahorse door knocker on dark wooden paneled door.

Knock, knock. Is anyone home?

Day two

Brewery and Museum

If you like beer, come join us

What feels best on a hot summer day? A glass of beer, of course. And when you do it in a brewery and museum, you have to taste more than just one glass. So take a look at Malta's only brewery. Not only beers are produced here, but also local soft drinks and mineral water. Our favourite soft drink is Kinnie, a slightly bitter orange-flavoured drink, which unfortunately is very difficult to get outside Malta.

Retro neon sign displaying 'LAGER' with bottle design in orange and pink stripes.

"We got to know the product range, now let's see where it's all made."

Copper brewing equipment valves and control wheels in an industrial brewery setting.

I turned it all to the left. I hope that's not a problem. Haha.

Large copper brewing kettle in an elegant white-tiled brewery room with wooden railings.

We have already seen something similar in Dublin at the Guinness Museum

Close-up of industrial brewery tank valves and gauges in copper finish.

Museum display panel titled 'When the Copper Blew Up!' with informational text and images.

Vintage neon sign advertising Pilsk Lager beer with glowing yellow and orange stripes.

Large copper beer brewing kettle displayed in a bright industrial space with windows.

From the museum's video presentations, we learned about the different periods when Malta was occupied throughout its history, from ancient times through to World War II. The British soldiers stationed here were beer lovers, too, aso Maltese families started brewing beer themselves. But the best part was yet to come. Head upstairs to the beer bar and roof terrace.

The cisk tap roof bar

The Cisk Tap sign mounted on green foliage covered wall in natural lighting.

Glass of amber beer and small plate of food on outdoor patio table.

The Amber Ale was a favorite, and if you're lucky enough to arrive at the right time, you can get happy hour bites to enjoy while taking in the brilliant views. From the roof terrace, you could see across much of Malta, with beautiful views and an amazing sunset.

Blue Label, Red Label, Green Label, Hop Leaf IPA and Amber Ale — come to me.

Orange-lit tiled wall displaying illuminated Cisk beer branding at night.

Art deco style brewhouse building exterior with classical statue decoration.

Large copper brewing kettle displayed in modern brewery building with floor-to-ceiling windows.

"Goodbye beer factory. Now let's catch a bus and go for an evening walk."

Street view through car windshield of a Mediterranean city with parked cars and buildings.

Malta's public transport is terrible, but at least you can enjoy air conditioning in the hot weather

Nighttime reflection of city lights on dark water with illuminated buildings along waterfront.

The LOVE statue has now been doubled at San Julian's Harbour

Nighttime street scene with string lights and buildings illuminated in warm glow.

Crowded outdoor dining area illuminated by warm string lights creating a festive nighttime atmosphere.

String-lit outdoor restaurant patio filled with diners enjoying a summer evening.

Illuminated Dubliner Irish Pub storefront at night with glowing signage and parked car.

DAY three

fish market at MARSAXLOKK

and beach day

The previous day, we'd tried Paradise Bay in the north of the island, but the waves were so big that Orsi's knees weren't ready for them. So this time, we decided to check out the southern part instead. To fit as many things as possible into the third day, we combined it with a visit to the fish market. There were plenty of fish — and plenty of fishy smells too. After lunch we headed to the beach. The water was crystal clear and just the right temperature.

Hand holding small seashells against a turquoise ocean backdrop.

Open palm holding tiny seashells while wearing tropical print dress on sandy beach.

Industrial port with smokestacks and blue cargo ship in crystal clear turquoise waters.

In the distance, you can see the power station that supplies electricity to the island

Large cargo ship anchored in bright turquoise Mediterranean waters.

The LNG arrives

Scenic harbor view with boats and industrial structures against bright blue sky.

So that's what drives all the air conditioning

The fish market

Fresh produce market stall with colorful fruits and vegetables on display.

Vendor arranging fresh produce in colorful plastic crates at outdoor market.

A vendor at a farmers market weighs fresh produce on a scale while surrounded by colorful fruits and vegetables.

Cathedral of St. Paul in Marsaxlokk, Malta with its twin towers against a bright blue sky.

Sunday Mass is open to everyone. Probably best to do this before the fish market.

A golden religious statue stands atop an ornate baroque church facade against a blue sky.

Kinnie or Cisk? Cheers!

sunset from the rooftop terrace

Silhouette of a construction crane against a sunset sky over a city skyline.

Rooftop infinity pool overlooking city skyline during sunset with construction cranes visible.

View towards the centre of the island

Modern rooftop swimming pool with construction cranes visible against blue sky.

And to the other side

Aerial view of curved city streets and architecture in Malta with urban buildings.

The iconic skate park from the rooftop

Panoramic cityscape view of Malta with church domes and buildings during dusk.

Construction cranes tower over a Mediterranean city during golden sunset.

Large construction crane overlooking Malta's coastal cityscape and harbor.

DAY four

valletta and leaving malta

On our last day, we got up early to enjoy the sunrise — we'd already seen the sunset the night before, so we thought we'd better get both. Unfortunately, our hometown is in a valley, so the sunlight isn't quite as spectacular during the so-called golden hour. We wanted to make the most of it here.

After a quick round of packing, we headed out of the hotel for one last splash. Around noon, we strolled through the winding streets of the capital and started thinking about what to have for our last lunch. Maybe that new pizza place we'd found the other day?

Ornate church dome with golden cross rises between historic buildings on a sunny day in Malta.

Steep street in Valletta leading to the iconic St. Paul's Cathedral dome against blue sky.

Streets of San Francisco with a bit more history :)

The pizza was a good idea, Sotto Pizzeria We'd come back here any time. It's probably the best pizzeria in Malta we've discovered so far. Then an ice cream at our favorite Amorino gelateria? Once again, amazing quality. Not cheap, but I'd happily come back to Malta just for this ice cream.