I love travelling by train, in fact it's my second favourite mode of transport after cycling. You don't have to concentrate on anything, you can read, listen to podcasts if you're tired, get up and walk, and even have a buffet car if you're lucky enough.
I've always dreamed of travelling on the Orient Express or on a steamboat down the Nile, I suppose it's a subconscious Agatha Christie infatuation. Actually, I could, because there are the Belmond trains and the SS Sudan ship - admiring the scenery from the dining car while enjoying a delicious lunch could be a great experience.
Well, the train we just got on was nothing like the dream version, it was filthy, uncomfortable and didn't even have a dining car. The destination we are heading is Rijeka (Fiume), Croatia. Having survived the night — which, of course contained only traces of sleep — we left Hungary and Slovenia and were now wandering through the Croatian countryside. The scenery had changed and leaning out of the train window in the morning sunshine we could smell the salt air coming in from the sea.
"We arrived and the vacation just started."
Coming from the Slovenian mountains to the Croatian coast
Thomas the Tank Engine, is that you?
Rijeka is a city that most people just pass by on their way to the beautiful Croatian coasts, but because of its history and Hungarian aspects, we were attracted to it. So we spent a few days here and also visited Opatija (Abbazia).
In the 20th century Rijeka was under the jurisdiction of six countries in turn: the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Free State of Rijeka — when Hungarian was an official language — Italy, the Third Reich, Yugoslavia and finally Croatia.
The most important industry here has been shipbuilding for centuries, so it is an industrial region that makes tourists prefer to go to more beautiful beaches. But that's not a problem at all, so let's explore.
DAY ONE
Just walking and looking around
On arrival, we left the station behind and were greeted by familiar buildings — as if we hadn't just crossed several countries. After a quick breakfast, we found the apartment, unpacked and set off on our adventure. With a welcome glass of Aperol spritz, we planned our first and second days. It wasn't really difficult, we just wanted to walk around and go to the beach. We relied on our feet without a plan, just walking around and watching the locals every day.
One of the rooms has a view of the sea and the other a view of a rustic house.
One of them ended up in the frying pan as my dinner
Fish markets always attract me for some reason and we just happened to come across one. I jumped at the chance and a big orada (sea bream) was the winner. And behind the fish market was the market where we bought the other ingredients.
Big business is about to happen
I have never eaten fish like this in my life.
Tomato tasting on the way
After the nearest harbour, we visited the city centre and the old town. We sat at the terrace of one of the numerous café bars lined along the small picturesque streets, squares and passages, and just enjoyed the sunshine and the crowds of locals and tourists. The sun was setting down and the fish was waiting at the apartment, so we headed back to the apartment.
Ports with cranes
Somehow the contrasts of these giant machines soften in the rays of the setting sun
DAY two
all day on the beach
After a good night's sleep, the sun beckoned through the window, so it was time for Orsi's favourite part - being at the beach. Sunglasses, suncream, mattress, local beers and off we went. We found the beach we picked earlier, I inflated the mattress and headed for the water. After a full day of beaching, we chose a small restaurant in the old town for another seafood dinner — you eat seafood when it's fresh, right? — Orsi had a pizza according to her it was the pizza of her life. Unfortunately I didn't have a camera with me for that day.
DAY three
On the way to Opatija to see the Riviera
After travelling for half an hour by bus, the contrast between the two cities was already easy to see. From the industrial region to the Riviera.
The first stop is the Lungomare boardwalk. The word Lungomare is of Italian origin and means long sea. The Lungomare, or sea boardwalk, starts 6 kilometres north of Opatija, at the northern corner of the Rijeka Bay, at a place called Preluka, passes through Opatija and goes all the way to Lovran. Its length is 12 kilometres. It is a succession of hotels and villas such as Villa Minach, Villa Ransonmet, Hotel Miramare, Villa Angiolina and Spa, Villa Madonna, Hotel Kvarner ... Maria Theresa, emperors, counts and countesses and aristocrats spent their holidays here. There is also an open-air theatre, which was one of the first wellness centres in the world. We ended our walk at the Icici beach, where we stopped for a little swimming.
Tourists enjoying the pool by the sea. Wondering what country they are from?
DAY four
Containers and cargo ships
After the world of the wealthy, to continue the contrast, we visited an industrial seaside again. For some reason I'm a big fan of giant cargo ships (maybe because my dad used to work on a cargo ship aswell and we visited him several times when I was a kid) and in my opinion ports with huge containers are great photo subjects, as the Viktor Lenac shipyard is next door. It was one of the first in the world to deal with ship lengthening. Today was my favourite day of the trip, so it's a shame that the memory card in the camera gave up, even though I took some of my favourite pictures of the last few days here. Our trip was coming to an end as we headed home the next morning.
"It was nice to see the contrast between the fancy and the industrial areas, and to learn that beauty is not only to be found in the wealthy areas."
